Poached meat for the trendyHTCThe current issue of Esquire...


November 07, 1996|By Elizabeth Large | Elizabeth Large,SUN RESTAURANT CRITIC

Poached meat for the trendy


The current issue of Esquire features respected food critic John Mariani's best new restaurants of 1996. Alas, he didn't get to Baltimore. But he did include his list of the trendiest new menu items. Keep an eye out for:

Amish chicken. The new au naturel poulet, free-range and corn-fed.

Frico. An Italian snack consisting of Parmigiano cheese melted into crisp wafers.

Upscale chicken wings. Instead of Wings from Hell, look for ailerons de volaille on the menu.

Tortilla soup. Something like gazpacho, served hot with tortilla chips on top.

Poached meat. Ugh. But Mariani swears it's a "deft variation on meats usually roasted."

Cappuccino sauces. So called because they're light and frothy, not because they have coffee in them.

Note that except for that last, all these trendy foods are also fairly homey.

Indian bounty

Baltimore is lucky to have any number of good Indian restaurants, but there's always room for one more. The one more in question is the new Indian Pavilion at 635 W. Pratt St. Specializing in northern Indian dishes (such as butter chicken and tandoori grilled foods), the Indian Pavilion has plenty of polish, with seating for 140 people and three levels, including a lounge and bar. Call (410) 752-5700 for reservations. In a sort of Oscar night for area restaurants, I find I have word of several awards -- some more impressive than others. In no particular order, here they are:

The Peerce's group of restaurants won the Best Vegetable Crab Soup in Maryland title at the eighth annual Old Bay Crab Soup Stakes Windows in the Renaissance Harborplace Hotel won for Best Cream of Crab Soup in the contest Karen Christ of King's Contrivance in Columbia was named Maryland's Best Server for Fine Dining in the 1996 Service Classic sponsored by the Restaurant Association of Maryland Savannah in Fells Point received Wine Spectator's highly respected Award of Excellence for its wine cellar.

Table Talk welcomes interesting tidbits of restaurant news. Please send suggestions to Elizabeth Large, Table Talk, The Sun, 501 N. Calvert St., Baltimore 21278. Or fax to (410) 783-2519.

Elizabeth Large's reviews of restaurants appear inside the Sunday Today section. This Sunday: The Blue Nile, Baltimore's new Ethiopian restaurant, where you can eat the plate when you finish your meal.

Pub Date: 11/07/96

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