Bon Appetit' Baltimore


August 08, 1996|By Elizabeth Large | Elizabeth Large,SUN RESTAURANT CRITIC

Several Baltimore eating places made it into September's Bon Appetit, a special issue devoted to the American restaurant.

In "Chefs' Night Out," Peter Zimmer of Joy America Cafe tells where he goes to eat when he's not cooking. His favorites: Lexington Market; Purim Oak, a small Asian restaurant in Towson that Bon Appetit calls "Premium Oak"; and the pizza chain Bertucci's, a favorite of Zimmer's kids.

The Wharf Rat near Camden Yards is prominent in another story, on the brew-pub craze sweeping the country. Special mention is made of the restaurant's "stout float." It's a brownie with ice cream with Blackfriar Stout poured over it.

"The whole thing tastes like a malted milk shake," says owner Bill Oliver.

Expanding 'on the Avenue'

Ah, success. Frazier's on the Avenue in Hampden is expanding into the space next door. (Losing its talented young chef, Eric Nachbahr, doesn't seem to have hurt business.) This new space will be converted into the dining room and banquet rooms, while the old one will be all bar. Meanwhile, the original Frazier's on West 33rd Street is up for sale.

Oriental Odenton

Odenton has a new Korean and Japanese restaurant, Cho-Son Oak (1558 Annapolis Road, [410] 551-5611). I haven't eaten there, but one reader calls it "a culinary treasure." It has a sushi bar, lunchtime buffet and galbi tables (where meat is barbecued on a grill while you watch).

Changing Watergate

When the company that owns the Watergate Hotel in Washington was taken over by another company, it affected one of the most influential restaurants in the country. Jean-Louis Palladin, chef-owner of Jean-Louis in the hotel, closed his restaurant recently. The hotel has the rights to the name Palladin, the hotel's larger and less formal restaurant, for the next six months. It's still open, but look for a new concept and a new name soon -- probably next month.

Rumor has it that Jean-Louis Palladin will eventually open a restaurant in New York.

Table Talk welcomes interesting tidbits of restaurant news. Please send suggestions to Elizabeth Large, Table Talk, The Sun, 501 N. Calvert St., Baltimore 21278. Or fax to (410) 783-2519.

Pub Date: 8/08/96

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