Town: Thomas a Becket was killed in the cathedral, and Geoffrey Chaucer related the tales of those who came on pilgrimage to the site. Now it is a tourist attraction, where modern hype and history meet.


July 28, 1996|By Evie Rapport | Evie Rapport,KANSAS CITY STAR

You get off the coach from London in Canterbury's modest little bus station, trot down Gravel Walk past a parking lot and come face to face with the Marlowe Arcade.

The Marlowe Arcade? As in Christopher Marlowe? This is appalling. A shopping center named for the playwright murdered 400 years ago? Shopping bags bearing the name of the pyrotechnic creator of "Dr. Faustus" and "The Jew of Malta"?

If they've done that to Marlowe -- who was only born here in 1564 -- what have they done to Geoffrey Chaucer, the 14th-century poet who immortalized the town in "The Canterbury Tales"? What horrors await? Ye Olde Nun's Priest's Tale Booke Shoppe? The Wife of Bath Oil and Salts Nook? The Pardoner's Bail Bond Agency?

Such dreadful temptations have been largely resisted. Yes, there's the Canterbury Heritage Museum & Rupert Bear Gallery, and one of those slightly cheesy mechanical "historical re-creations -- smells and all" -- about Chaucer's "Tales." No doubt during the town's glory years similar "attractions" brightened the days of the faithful who had fulfilled their mission at the shrine of St. Thomas a Becket in Canterbury Cathedral.

For Canterbury has been a tourist destination for 800 years. After Jerusalem and Rome, it was a premier center for that great medieval religious undertaking, the pilgrimage. Christ Church Cathedral had been, since the days of William the Conqueror, the seat of the Primate of All England.

The town was also the site of the first English monastery. A Benedictine house, it was founded by St. Augustine soon after he was sent to England in 597 to convert the kingdoms of Britain.

Through the centuries, other orders built near the cathedral: the Carmelite White Friars, the Franciscan Grey Friars, the Dominican Black Friars. Like many an English town, Canterbury thrived with the fortunes of these religious houses, which were also well-managed farms, wool producers and schools.

On Dec. 29, 1170, occurred the shocking crime that was the worst and best thing that ever happened to Canterbury: The bitter power struggle between King Henry II and Archbishop Thomas a Becket climaxed in Becket's murder in the northwest transept of the cathedral by four knights who answered Henry's raging rhetorical question: "Who will rid me of this turbulent priest?"

Within days the first miracles were reported; in February 1173 Becket was canonized. In July 1174, Henry II submitted to a flogging at Becket's tomb. A few months later half the 100-year-old Norman church was ravaged by fire. The new archbishop seized the opportunity to build a fitting shrine, starting with gorgeous honey-colored Caen stone imported from Normandy.

Floods of pilgrims came. Their donations made possible ever more elaborate fittings; in a splendid upward spiral, the elegance of the cathedral drew more pilgrims as the fame of the shrine grew.

In 1220 Becket's body was moved into Trinity Chapel and set in a prodigiously bejeweled and gilded monument that could be raised to reveal the coffin itself.

Chaucer's journeys

In the 1370s Chaucer began traveling the old Kent Road from London to Dover on his way to Europe on King Edward III's diplomatic business. In those dangerous days, he would have journeyed with groups on the Pilgrims Way to Canterbury -- and have heard the kinds of stories that strangers thrown together in tour groups tell to pass the time.

He would have known the beauties awaiting them at the cathedral: mosaic floors, soaring arches, astonishingly vibrant stained-glass "miracle" windows telling the story of Becket's martyrdom. Perhaps he would even have climbed the long stairs in the south aisle -- on his knees, too -- helping to wear the stone into the deep hollows visible today.

Becket's shrine is gone now, its site marked by a candle on the floor. King Henry VIII began dissolving the monasteries in 1536, after breaking with the Church of Rome over his divorce from Catherine of Aragon. Canterbury surrendered in 1540, after its treasures had been plundered. Not one to forgive even an ancient slight to royal dignity, Henry VIII declared Becket a traitor and had his bones destroyed.

Shrines all over England were ripped apart. The destruction of more than 800 religious houses brought to a crashing halt the beloved practice of pilgrimages. It sliced right through the structure of English society, in many ways ending medieval life itself.

Time stands still

Somehow Canterbury survived this blow, although the old town center looks as if time stopped when the money did, a few decades after the dissolution.

Now, in no small part because of a carefully cultivated "time capsule" aura, Canterbury and its cathedral remain destinations for latter-day pilgrims. At the height of the tourist season in July and August, 15,000 people may pass through the cathedral each day. Two million people a year walk the carless streets in the heart of this town of 35,000 -- soaking in the Roman, Saxon and Norman past.

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