Cherry moves to Viccino


June 27, 1996|By Elizabeth Large | Elizabeth Large,SUN RESTAURANT CRITIC

When owner Susan Daniel decided to change her Mediterranean restaurant Tabrizi's to a Maryland seafood restaurant, she and chef Christopher Cherry parted ways amicably. He has since moved on to Viccino (1315 N. Charles St.), a 75-seat bistro where he can offer rustic Italian cuisine done with contemporary style. (Such dishes as calf's liver and fresh herbs on a skewer with risotto and roasted rabbit are on the menu.) Valet parking will be available soon.

Spike & Charlie's Jr.

Spike & Charlie's, known for its cutting-edge style and innovative food (and the wine list isn't bad either), is the last place you'd expect to open a neighborhood eatery. But look for its Jr. to open up at 1501 Bolton St., where Cusack's used to be, by the middle of next month.

Hours will be 7 a.m. to 9 p.m. Breakfast, lunch and dinner will be served, and there will be more light fare and less complicated dishes than Jr.'s parent restaurant offers.

Louie lives

People continue to ask the staff of Louie the Bookstore Cafe when the Mount Vernon bar-restaurant-bookshop is closing. It isn't, according to owner Shani Mack. She says she had heard the rumor got started because Louis Booke jewelers on Saratoga has gone out of business. (It hasn't.)

Dessert trends

Here they are, the leading dessert trends in American restaurants, according to the June issue of the trade magazine Chef:

Nostalgic desserts (like cheesecake and pecan pie), home-style presentations, bananas (almost as popular as chocolate, according to one pastry chef!), dried fruit, all-fruit desserts with local produce, ice creams, cookies and ethnic flavors (such as pineapple with a black pepper crust, cilantro sauce and bitter cocoa sorbet). Dessert carts are on their way back -- of course, at some restaurants they never left -- and dessert medleys are hot.

Carryout of the Week

"It's wonderful carryout Chinese food prepared by a charming Chinese couple at a reasonable price," the letter said. The fact that the writer was from Berkeley where she grew up on good Chinese food made me pay attention. So off I went to the Olden Wok (8644 Loch Raven Blvd.). Not bad, in fact good enough to be my Chinese Carryout Find of the Week. Recommendations: crisp spring rolls, full of shrimp, and a modest but satisfying chicken and broccoli. For $15 I got enough food to feed my family of three with leftovers.

Table Talk welcomes interesting tidbits of restaurant news. Please send suggestions to Elizabeth Large, Table Talk, The Sun, 501 N. Calvert St., Baltimore 21278. Or fax to (410) 783-2519.

Pub Date: 6/27/96

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