Southern food gets a light, modern touch Atlanta: Bring home the gold, with rave-winning recipes from a bright young chef.

June 23, 1996|By EATING WELL United Feature Syndicate

He's young, he's talented and he's the new chef at Atlanta's hot Horseradish Grill. This July, Dave Berry will introduce thousands of hungry Olympic visitors to real Southern food. With this menu, you can join them.

Grilled pork tenderloin

Makes 6 servings

2 3/4 -pound pork tenderloins, trimmed of fat

1 tablespoon Worcestershire sauce

1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

North Carolina barbecue sauce (recipe below)

Brush tenderloins with Worcestershire sauce and sprinkle with pepper. Place in a shallow dish, cover and marinate in the refrigerator for at least 2 hours or up to 8 hours.

Prepare a charcoal fire or heat a gas grill. Grill the meat over a medium-hot fire, turning once or twice and basting liberally with barbecue sauce, until the outside is browned and the inside has just a trace of pink, 10 to 15 minutes. (An instant-read thermometer should register 150 degrees.) Let rest about 5 minutes before slicing.

Pass additional barbecue sauce alongside.

Nutrition information: 155 calories per 3-ounce serving; 26 grams protein; 4 grams fat (1.5 grams saturated fat); 2 grams carbohydrate; 355 milligrams sodium; 83 milligrams cholesterol; 0 grams fiber.

North Carolina barbecue sauce

Makes 1 cup

1 cup distilled white vinegar

4 teaspoons kosher salt

1 tablespoon freshly ground black pepper

1 tablespoon red-pepper flakes

1 teaspoon ground red pepper (cayenne)

In a glass jar with a tight-fitting lid, combine all ingredients and shake well. (The sauce keeps indefinitely at room temperature.)

Test kitchen tip: Make the sauce at least 2 days before using; it mellows with age.

A vegetable sampler

There's no doubt about it -- Southerners love their vegetables. From roadside diners to top restaurants, three vegetable sides are the norm. Chef Berry finds he can cut the fat from traditional preparations by cooking vegetables in flavor-infused stocks instead of fatback or butter. Here sweet potatoes, black-eyed peas and greens have all the slow-cooked richness without the fat.

Sweet potato casserole

Makes 6 servings

L 4 large sweet potatoes, peeled and sliced into 1/8 -inch rounds

1/4 cup defatted reduced-sodium chicken broth

1/4 cup honey

2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice

1 tablespoon canola oil

1/2 teaspoon salt

1/2 teaspoon ground ginger

1/2 teaspoon grated nutmeg

1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

Heat oven to 350 degrees. Lightly oil a shallow 2-quart baking dish. Layer sweet potatoes in the dish. In a small bowl, combine the remaining ingredients and pour over the sweet potatoes.

Cover tightly with aluminum foil and bake for 1 1/2 hours, or until the sweet potatoes are very tender. Uncover and bake, basting often, until the liquid has reduced to a syrup and the top is glazed, 30 to 40 minutes.

Nutrition information: 215 calories per serving; 3 grams protein; 2 grams fat (0.2 grams saturated fat); 47 grams carbohydrate; 260 milligrams sodium; 0 milligrams cholesterol; 7 grams fiber

Black-eyed peas

Makes about 3 cups, for 6 servings

3 cups fresh or frozen black-eyed peas or field peas

3 cups ham-scented broth

salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

In a saucepan, combine peas and broth. Simmer over medium heat for about 45 minutes, or until peas are very tender. Add salt and pepper. Transfer the peas to a serving bowl along with some of the broth.

Nutrition information: 85 calories per serving; 3 grams protein; 1 grams fat (0.3 grams saturated fat); 16 grams carbohydrate; 325 milligrams sodium; 3 milligrams cholesterol; 5 grams fiber

Seasonal greens

Makes about 4 cups for 6 servings

3 cups ham-scented broth

2 pounds collard, turnip or mustard greens, stemmed and washed

salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

In a large pot, bring broth to a boil. Meanwhile, slice greens into 1-inch ribbons. Add to the broth and cook, stirring often, until tender, about 20 minutes. Add salt and pepper. Transfer the greens to a serving bowl along with some of the broth. Serve with North Carolina barbecue sauce, if you like.

Nutrition information: 25 calories per serving; 3 grams protein; 1 gram fat (0.3 grams saturated fat); 3 grams carbohydrate; 335 milligrams sodium; 3 milligrams cholesterol; 2 grams fiber

Ham-scented broth

Makes about 6 cups

1 1/2 quarts defatted reduced-sodium chicken broth

1/2 pound country ham, cubed, or smoked ham hock

1 Spanish onion, chopped

2 teaspoons black peppercorns

In a soup pot, combine broth, ham, onions, peppercorns and 2 cups water. Bring to a boil, reduce heat and simmer, covered, for 1 hour. Let cool. Strain and refrigerate the broth until cold; skim the fat from the surface.

Nutrition information: 25 calories per cup; 2 grams protein; 1 gram fat (0 grams saturated fat); 2 grams carbohydrate; 65 milligrams sodium; 3 milligrams cholesterol; 0 grams fiber

Pub Date: 6/23/96

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