1994 Chateau Ste. Michelle Chardonnay, Barrel Fermented, Columbia Valley ($12)
This Washington state winery produces this crisp, TC medium-weight chardonnay in massive quantities, but the wine still retains an artisanal authenticity. It's exquisitely balanced, with fine toastiness, rich yeast flavors and surprising complexity. It's a wine to look out for, especially on restaurant wine lists.