In spring, fall back to '60s look A spin through the '60s: Forget the love beads, this retro look takes its cues from the suburbs and country clubs, not the Haight.

November 04, 1995|By Vida Roberts | Vida Roberts,SUN FASHION EDITOR

White-bread and mayonnaise styles of the Sixties have been spiced up and recycled for next spring. Muffy as muse? Both young designers and old houses tapped suburbia and the country club for ideas.

Women who remember Liberty prints, madras plaids, Aigner straw satchels and Pappagallo flats as summer staples will feel a jolt because these are not your basic mummy designs.

Hold on to your Bermuda bags! Anna Sui took the Villager look downtown to the Village blowing up the floral prints to upholstery-sized scale. Peter Pan collars topped backless halter dresses. Her madras bermudas were tightened to biker fit or shrunk to cheek-baring bikinis. WASPy it wasn't; kicky, yes.

Marc Jacobs showed lots of chino, but his had a sparkle finish. That's for the casual chiclettes.

Isaac Mizrahi went Sixties country club catered affair when pouf hairdos were as unmoving as the stiff shifts and cocktail suits. His series of satin A-lines encrusted with beading at neck and sleeve can be seen in any old family album on the mother of the bride or of the bar mitzvah boy. What was he thinking? It wasn't all matronly. The show was saved by a finale of long push-up bra slinks and the designer's ebullient skip down the runway.

Bill Blass did them in the Sixties and is still doing clothes right for women who want to be perfectly turned out. Here's a designer whose clothes define the idea of investment dressing. While the youngsters have just this season come around to toying with the idea of coordinating coats and dresses, Bill Blass has perfected the look -- clean lines defined by welt seaming, cuts that skim the body, subtle trim. Owning a vintage Blass from the '60s would thrill any young modern; her mom should have saved them all.

In and around the shows:

It's never too early to fashion train. The Trumps came out as a family at the Mizrahi show and caused a flash storm. The Donald was suited and florid. The Marla was in black patent jeans and baby-blue, baby-sized T-shirt. The baby was in black patent leather vest and black leggings. As mama Marla coaxed, baby did her big-girl sit up and smile for the blinding cameras. The kid's a trouper.

Timex, the official time-keeper for these fashion trials, keeps daily stats on runway and backstage doings. Some figures to note:

* The broken clock award for the latest show start goes to Randy Kemper at 42 minutes. There's fashionably late and and then there's pushing.

* The average show run time for Day 4 of fashion week was 24 minutes.

* The week before the shows, select top models go to an average of 20 appointments a day.

* Average time it takes a model to "work" an outfit on the runway is 25 to 30 seconds.

* Average time between costume changes: 2 1/2 to 3 minutes.

* Typically, it takes 1 1/2 to 3 hours for a model's show hair and makeup.

* Average size of a collection: 60 looks.

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