1993 Reds, California Red Table Wine, Laurel Glen Vineyard ($9)

Patrick Campbell, the talented maker of one of California's greatest cabernet sauvignons, apparently decided to just have some fun with this wine. It's a blend of unspecified red grapes that add up to a concentrated, delicious, decadently fruity wine. The flavors include blackberry, black pepper and blueberry, and they come right at you with explosive force. Devotees of the hard-to-find Marietta Old Vines blends will find a new favorite in this great value. It's been advertised on sale in Washington for as little as $6. At that price, buy it by the case.