U. H. A. Strub Niersteiner Rosenberg Riesling Spatlese ($11)

1993 J.

June 14, 1995|By Michael Dresser

Warning: Availability of this wine might be limited because I've bought every bottle I can afford. It is simply the finest value in white wine I have tasted in years, not to mention the greatest spatlese I have ever tasted from the Rheinhessen.

It ripples across the palate like cool fire, electrifying the taste buds with layer upon layer of flavor: apple, pear, minerals, honey and spices. The acid balances out the residual sugar so well that while it feels sweet, it tastes dry. I'm saving a bottle or two for Thanksgiving turkey dinner. If this particular wine is not available, look for other 1993s by Strub. It was a magic vintage for this fine producer. (Prices could rise because of the strong mark.)

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