Fried food is king at Frazier's

March 03, 1995|By Elizabeth Large | Elizabeth Large,Sun Restaurant Critic

Maybe you used to eat at Frazier's Taproom when you worked at the Royal Farm Store in Hampden. Or when you were a graduate student at Hopkins. But here it is 20 years later, and you'd forgotten Frazier's existed.

So you're kind of surprised to find out it's become a hangout for the Roland Park-Guilford-Homeland crowd.

Especially since there's not a no-smoking section.

And you don't have much choice of chardonnays by the glass.

Not one of the sandwiches comes on a baguette or seven-grain bread.

And the kitchen's idea of a green vegetable is fried cauliflower. (No, that's a joke. But if you want broccoli, it costs a dollar extra.)

Ah, we're feeling better now. The garden salad is made with Euromix greens, not iceberg.

You can get bottles of sparkling mineral water.

Good quality butter, not margarine, comes with the dinner rolls.

And Barb Greenspun, who bought Frazier's with her husband, Norm, six years ago, has got to be the nicest restaurant owner in town. You want to eat here just to be around her.

And this is a fun place to eat, all cozied up with the other tables literally inches away, an incredibly low drop ceiling and vintage photos all along the walls. Make new friends. Die of lung cancer. (No, no, I didn't mean that.)

Here's my advice: Go to Frazier's for the crisply fried chicken and have it with fried eggplant and stewed tomatoes. Or try the meaty ribs with hand-cut french fries and coleslaw.

Stay away from the house specialty, the crab cake, until the price of crab meat comes down because it'll cost you $2 more than usual. It's generously full of crab meat, but ours was cooked to dryness.

Try the French onion soup with lots of melted cheese. It's surprisingly sweet (maybe the kitchen caramelized the onions?), but at least it's steaming hot and not made with canned beef broth.

Get any of the fried appetizers -- mozzarella sticks, shrimp, potato skins. Fried is what Frazier's does best.

But stay away from the homemade apple pie. While we Roland Park-Guilford-Homeland types like our apple pie au naturel, a wee bit of sugar wouldn't hurt.

Hey, why stop at a wee bit? Finish off your fried chicken dinner with Frazier's hot fudge sundae, and you'll go home happy.


Where: 857 W. 33rd St.

Hours: Sundays to Thursdays, 11 a.m.-10 p.m., Fridays and Saturdays, 11 a.m.-2 a.m.

Credit cards accepted: MC, V

Features: Bar food

Non-smoking section? No

Call: (410) 889-1143

Prices: Appetizers, $2.50-$5.95; entrees, $8.50-$16.95

** 1/2

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