Use eye makeup for the whole eye, not just the iris

COSMETICS COUNTER

May 05, 1994|By Paula Begoun | Paula Begoun,Knight Ridder/Tribune News Service

Q: You say women should not wear blue eye shadow, but recommend that a brunette like myself should wear blue cool tones. Common sense would tell me to wear a mauve or purplish color to make my hazel eyes more definite, but this looks just horrible.

I must own a thousand tubes of lipstick. What I am looking for is a neutral color that flatters me, a nice plum color.

I would also like one eye shadow color that would open my very small eyes. At one time I had myself draped and was labeled a Winter.

I've enclosed a picture of myself without makeup. I need help!

A: It is my guess from your picture that you are a soft or pastel Winter (as opposed to a true Winter).

You are not going to be happy in vivid colors. You will be much more comfortable in blue-toned pastels, so instead of wearing fuchsia you should wear a true pink, and instead of wearing navy or cobalt blue you should wear peacock, turquoise or sapphire blue.

Don't concentrate on eye makeup color to make the color of your eyes stand out; eye makeup is to shade and shape the eye area, so your whole eye will stand out, not just the iris.

Purple and plum are just too much color for someone who doesn't want to wear a lot of makeup. For lipstick stay with mauve-pink.

You could start by mixing some of the lipsticks you've already purchased to try and create the right color instead of shopping for more products.

For eye shadow you would be better off with a soft gray or mauve-brown, but stay away from purples and pinks.

By the way, you do not have small eyes. Let go of that one -- it is getting in your way when it comes to making good decisions about your makeup.

Q: I am a stand-up comedian in Dallas. I've read all your books, and I don't want you to hate me because I wear shiny pink eye shadows and blush. I am an entertainer, and that is what works best for me on stage.

I also love Chanel's La Ligne, but I have a hard time getting the lines to extend evenly from both eyes.

My application technique is for the birds. Do you know of this product or any better techniques I haven't figured out yet?

A: First of all, I want to be very clear that all I ever express is my opinion, and because this is a free country you can wear blue or pink or what ever shiny eye shadows and blush you want anyplace you want.

However, having done theatrical makeup and media makeup for years, I can assure you that none of the comedians or stage performers I've ever worked on or met wear shiny eye shadows.

At least not the ones who have professional makeup artists to get in their way.

Matte neutral eye shadows are the only kind professional makeup artists use. But enough of that -- I can love someone who wears shiny eye shadows.

By the way, Chanel's La Ligne is one serious eye liner. I can't make any recommendation about your eye-lining technique because you are too young to be making wings with your eye liner. I think only the Gabor sisters and Joan Collins do that, and even they shouldn't.

Liner is supposed to stop at the very back corner of the eye and then turn to make the lower line.

Follow your lashes, not some imaginary line out to the temples. No wings!

Paula Begoun publishes the Cosmetics Counter Update, a newsletter that comes out every other month. For an introductory copy of the subscription newsletter, send $1 for shipping and handling to: The Beginning Press, 5418 South Brandon, Seattle, Wash. 98118.

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