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The American melting pot is brimming with the holiday foods of diverse cultures

December 12, 1993|By Dotty Griffith , Dallas Morning News Universal Press Syndicate

So many occasions; so much to eat. That's the delicious problem confronting Americans during December. Whatever the reason for the celebration, food plays a major role.

Polish Catholics mark Christmas Eve with a festive, but meatless, meal.

Symbolic foods play a major role on the Karamu table during Kwanzaa, a celebration of African-American community and culture.

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And although New Year's Eve is better known for its partying and libations, certain "lucky" foods are as important to that holiday as turkey is to Thanksgiving. In Italy, lentils are the food that brings luck for the coming year.

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Once upon a time, the Polish Christmas Eve dinner was 12 meals eaten over the course of this very important family day.

Mark Jedlinski, a graphic designer originally from Poland, recalls large, family-style meals featuring a wide variety of foods. There's a lot of fish, he says, sometimes boiled and served encased in gelatin, as well as baked or broiled. Herring, prepared in a variety of ways, is also traditional.

Of course, there are pierogi, Polish dumplings, often stuffed with mushrooms, cabbage or sauerkraut. Mushrooms are likely to show up in other guises as well, particularly creamed and served over toast points, or in soup. Salads and vegetable dishes are almost always made with potatoes and cabbage.

The feast is readied while children and grandmothers decorate the tree, Mr. Jedlinski says.

Polish creamed mushrooms

Makes 6 servings

6 tablespoons butter (divided use)

juice of 1 lemon, strained

2 pounds fresh mushrooms, cleaned and sliced

4 or 5 green onions, chopped, white part only

1 teaspoon minced parsley

2 tablespoons flour

1 cup half-and-half

1 egg yolk, beaten

salt and white pepper to taste

4 to 6 slices buttered rye toast, cut into points, if desired

Melt 4 tablespoons butter in skillet over medium heat. Add lemon juice. Cook mushrooms and onions in lemon butter until mushrooms shrink and nearly all the liquid is absorbed. Sprinkle with parsley.

VJ In another small skillet, melt 2 tablespoons butter and stir in flour.

Cook over low heat until bubbly, 2 to 3 minutes. Stir flour mixture into mushrooms. Slowly add half-and-half, stirring gently, and bring just to a boil.

Remove from heat. Whisk in egg yolk and season to taste with salt and pepper. Serve over toast.

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