Critic's choice

November 21, 1993|By Michael Dresser

1992 Murphy-Goode Pinot Blanc, Alexander Valley ($14). This delicious, barrel-fermented white wine is made from the melon de Bourgogne grape, the same varietal that yields Muscadet. This wine is nothing like Muscadet, however. It's a ripe, yeasty, toasty wine with a fascinating mix of melon, pear and herb flavors. It outclasses most chardonnays in its price class and would be a delicious companion with salmon or swordfish. Keep an eye on Murphy-Goode. This winery is doing some brilliant work.

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