A toast to Napa Valley and its exquisite Meadowood resort California's Wine Country

We skipped breakfast the day we lunched at Tra Vigne, the spectacular Italianate-inspired villa, which was once a Mondavi grape crushing facility. It was Thursday, but by noon, lines curled out the door. Behind hanging curing hams, strings of garlic, brilliant peppers and drying herbs, individual-sized pizzas cooked in the open, wood-burning oven.

NB Chef Michael Chiarello, who described his cooking as "robust,"

obliged our request for a "tasting lunch." We began with walnut ** bread, extra-extra virgin olive oil puddled in the dipping saucer and iced Sauvignon Blanc. Delicious appetizer-sized selections included: house-cured prosciutto and local figs on a bed of arugula; just-picked striped green tiger and golden tomatoes in olive oil, calamari sauteed with mushrooms on roasted polenta, boneless rabbit with fresh Parmesan cheese on curly pasta, and pan-fried tuna.

Mr. Chiarello smiled at our obvious appreciation. "Here we see tourists and visitors who are planning on being enchanted," he said. "Everyone in the valley -- from wine makers and hoteliers to chefs -- takes that charge very seriously."

IF YOU GO . . .

* Meadowood Resort, 900 Meadowood Lane, St. Helena, Calif. 94574; [phone], [phone].

For tasting information:

Napa Valley Vintner's Association, P.O. Box 141, St. Helena, Calif. 94574; [phone].

Dining:

* Auberge du Soleil, 180 Rutherford Hill Road, Rutherford, Calif. 94573; [phone], [phone].

* Domaine Chandon, California Drive, Yountville, Calif. 94599; [phone].

* Tra Vigne, 1050 Charter Oak, St. Helena, Calif. 94574; [phone].