ISO new menus to conquer, chefs switch kitchens


August 22, 1993|By Mary Corey | Mary Corey,Staff Writer

The chef-swapping continues.

Allison Dugdale, one of Baltimore's best-known culinary talents, has left Foster's Oyster Bar, Restaurant and Market for a job four blocks away at John Steven Ltd., while George Platis, who ran the kitchen at the Camden Club, is taking over her old post at Foster's.

Ms. Dugdale has frequented John Steven for years and become friendly with owner Chuck Doering. She said she couldn't pass ** up the chance to run the kitchen there, particularly since the Fells Point hang-out expanded two years ago.

Although her menu is still in the development stage, it's due out by early September. She promises to keep the house favorites -- sushi and steamed seafood -- while adding pasta, quiche, salads and more desserts.

"The emphasis will still be on seafood, but I'd like to make it a little more sophisticated," she says.

Incidentally, this isn't the first time she's moved her pots and pans around the waterfront. Before joining Foster's, she was working down the street at the Admiral Fell Inn.

"I've been making a professional tour of Fells Point kitchens for six or seven years," she says with a laugh. "This is my latest stop."

MARYLAND CRABS MEET BIG APPLE: Guy Reinbold, the executive chef of Stouffer Harborplace Hotel, was in New York last week, showing off Maryland seafood to food aficionados at the Beard House. Mr. Reinbold was invited to the Greenwich Village brownstone, which is part of the James Beard Foundation, after his cooking won raves in Bon Appetit magazine.

His ode to Maryland seafood included crab cakes served with lime-dill mayonnaise, Chincoteague oyster chowder and tomato pie with mixed greens.

THE ONE WORLD OF FEDERAL HILL: By early October, Baltimore should have yet another spot to sip coffee and nibble on sweets. Brothers Frank and Luis Fabara are hard at work renovating an old florist shop at 904 S. Charles St. to turn it into One World Cafe.

Luis, a native of Washington, decided to open the coffeehouse after managing a combination coffee cafe and billiards room in San Diego.

He plans to serve light fare, vegetarian dishes and desserts to complement the 10 kinds of coffee he'll have on hand. (Look for espresso, cappuccino and tea, too.)

So far, he's found it challenging to adjust to Charm City's laid-back style.

"Baltimore is a sleepy town," he says. "I want to wake it up with some coffee."

Better make it strong and black, Luis.

IT'LL BE A SPLASH: Those in the mood to sample fare from many restaurants at once will have the chance come October 23, when the National Aquarium in Baltimore sponsors Rain Dance, a gala benefit with a rain-forest theme that has some 36 restaurants and beverage companies joining forces.

An eclectic crowd has been assembled, from the posh Citronelle, Polo Grill and Tio Pepe to the more casual Weber's on Boston, the Red Star and Cafe Hon.

For more information, call (410) 576-3877.

Have news about local restaurants, chefs or clubs? Call (410) 332-6156 or write the Real Dish, Baltimore Sun, 501 N. Calvert St., Baltimore, 21278.

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