The following pinot noirs, tasted within the last month, were bought for under $20 in Maryland stores. They are listed in order of preference.
* 1989 Knudsen-Erath Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley, Oregon
* 1990 Frederic Esmonin Bourgogne "Les Genevrieres" ($18).
These wines are of average quality, but the Le Sable is cheap enough to serve as an everyday hamburger wine:
* 1990 Bourgogne, Selection Becky Wasserman, Pinot Noir ($9).
L * 1989 Rex Hill Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley, Oregon ($18).
* 1990 Seghesio Pinot Noir, Russian River Valley ($8).
* 1988 Le Sable Pinot Noir, Oplemac, Yugoslavia ($5).
* 1991 Mountain View Pinot Noir, 50 percent Monterey, 50 percent Napa ($7.49).
The following wines should be avoided:
* 1991 Wyndham Estate Pinot Noir, Bin 333, Southeastern Australia ($7.49).
* Calera Red Table Wine, California Pinot Noir, nonvintage ($12).