Berlin's Atlantic Hotel serves up genteel, pleasant dining

June 20, 1993|By Audrey Haar | Audrey Haar,Staff Writer

The genteel charm of a dinner at the Atlantic Hotel in Berlin is a welcome alternative to the fast-paced bustle of most restaurants in Ocean City.

Built in 1895 and restored several years ago, the building serves as a focal point along Main Street.

The decor of the restaurant and lounge should be savored along with the food. In a corner of the lounge is a piano with

plush seating nearby. The room has polished hardwood floors, and the walls have interesting framed prints and beveled mirrors.

There are also charming Victorian glass lamps, and a bar in the rear has a gleaming white marble top and a shiny brass rail.

It was good there were so many interesting furnishings to occupy our attention in the lounge, because it was difficult to get the attention of the overworked bartender on a Saturday evening.

The dining room across the entrance hall is decorated with mint green wallpaper, weighty red velvet curtains and gilt mirrors. The electrical storm that was brewing outside also added a bit of drama.

We started our meal with the pasta puttanesca and smoke duck salad. The pasta puttanesca ($5.95) featured linguine with black olives, capers, artichokes and goat cheese for good measure. We particularly liked the light dressing, which wasn't too oily.

The smoked duck salad ($8.95) had slices of smoked duck, orange sections and red onion rings on a bed of shredded lettuce and cabbage. A light vinaigrette complemented it well.

For our main courses, we had grouper ($19.95) and roast duckling ($18.95).

The fish was fresh and flavorful and served in a lemon sauce with chunks of avocado and crab flakes scattered on top. The duck, which was cooked with a lingonberry glaze that didn't overpower the meat, was cooked perfectly with crispy skin outside and soft, tender meat inside.

For dessert, we had the Bailey's Irish Cream cheesecake ($4.50) that was enhanced with a layer of chocolate on top. The chocolate hazelnut bourbon cake ($4.50) was a dense chocolate cake with a thick filling of chocolate fudge.

After such a large meal, it was a pleasure to sit on the brick porch of the Atlantic Hotel for a few minutes and enjoy the quiet of Main Street Berlin.


Where: 2 N. Main St., Berlin (410) 641-3589

Hours: Dinner served 6-10 p.m. weekends, 6-9 p.m. weekdays

Credit Cards: Master Card, Visa

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