Maison Marconi, 106 W. Saratoga St., (410) 727-9522. This...

DINING OUT -- THE CRITIC'S REPORT

May 08, 1993|By ELIZABETH LARGE | ELIZABETH LARGE,Restaurant Critic

Maison Marconi, 106 W. Saratoga St., (410) 727-9522. This is a restaurant that doesn't know what the word trendy means. The food is comfort food, which may sound odd when you're talking about lobster and sweetbreads; but it's true nonetheless. It's still the same quirky, personable, comfortable place I remember from my earliest days in Baltimore. The menu is pretty much unaffected by the food fashions of the day. I remember ordering these same dishes two decades ago: lobster cardinal, sweetbreads in a cream sauce, creamed spinach and, of course, the now famous ice cream served with a bowl of homemade chocolate sauce. $$-$$$ -- Moderate to expensive. (Last reviewed 4/93.)

Sunday Brunch at the Hyatt Regency Hotel, 300 Light St., (410) 528-1234. You know if it's a buffet brunch you're going to be eating foods that were never meant to go together, like blintzes and veal Oscar. And you're going to be drinking champagne a little too early in the day. Worst of all, you'll walk past those tables with six desserts on them, one bite taken out of each, and you'll start to feel depressed about the sheer waste. But the good news is that much of the food is fine; entertainment includes an accordion player, violinist and magician; and a good time is had by all. $$ -- Moderate. (Last reviewed 4/93.)

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