Sisson's, 36 E. Cross St., (410) 539-2093. Beer figures...

DINING OUT -- THE CRITIC'S REPORT

April 24, 1993|By ELIZABETH LARGE | ELIZABETH LARGE,Restaurant Critic

Sisson's, 36 E. Cross St., (410) 539-2093. Beer figures prominently here not only as a decorative motif and the specialty drink of the house, but also in a section on the menu, "Cooking with Beer." Try ribs tenderized in beer, perhaps, or duck in cherry beer, or pork tenderloin marinated in stout. Cajun and creole dishes are also a specialty, but they were the least successful part of our meal except for shrimp etouffee in a spicy, dark sauce. The menu changes every two weeks, but you always can count on imaginative and good food at this popular Federal Hill eatery. $$ -- moderate. (Last reviewed 3/93.)

Gampy's, 904 N. Charles St., (410) 837-9797. What makes Gampy's and places like it enduringly popular is that they offer a good selection of interesting dishes for people who want a few more choices than just hamburgers and pizza for under $10. It was one of the first bar-restaurants around here to offer foods of different ethnic backgrounds, which was a pretty original concept when the place opened some 15 years ago. Try the excellent chicken fajitas made with blackened chicken and soft, warm tortillas; the cheese or beef fondue; the teriyaki vegetables with rice on the side. (You can, by the way, get pizzas and hamburgers here too.) $ -- inexpensive. (Last reviewed 3/93.)

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