Sutton Place Gourmet 1808 Reisterstown Road, Festival at...

CARRY OUT

April 17, 1993|By Stephen Wigler

Sutton Place Gourmet 1808 Reisterstown Road, Festival at Woodholme Plaza, Pikesville. Hours: Open Monday through Saturday 9 a.m. to 8 p.m. and Sunday 9 a.m. to 7:30 p.m. (410) 484-5501.

The adage that you get what you pay for is belied -- at least partially -- by the take-out sections at the Sutton Place Gourmet. This Pikesville gourmet shop is, of course, the sort of place where wealthy young mothers, in cashmere sweat shirts and chinchilla coats from Bergdorf's can be seen pushing their children in strollers from Bloomingdale's. Shopping here for take-out is like searching for Cezannes at Sotheby's: It can be correspondingly expensive.

And not always worth it. Ratatouille ($6.98 a pound) had too much oregano and was too dry and not fresh, and a consistency like rubber made it nearly inedible. French garlic potatoes with dill ($4.99 a pound) had almost no garlic and were utterly bland.

But some things were worth their price. Roast turkey ($11.99 a pound) had the taste you long for at Thanksgiving but rarely get -- smooth, tender and juicy. A quinoa (it's a South American grain) salad ($1.50) was spicy and quite delicious. And a succulent chicken breast stuffed with goat cheese and sun-ripened tomatoes ($10.98 a pound) was worth every penny.

For desserts, Sutton Place Gourmet has a fine bakery, a rich assortment of chocolates and some homemade ice cream flavors -- such as French lavender and chestnut or strawberry, vodka and basil -- that are beyond the wildest dreams (or is it nightmares?) of Ben and Jerry's.

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