Patrick's, Cranbrook Shopping Center, Cockeysville, (410...

Patrick's, Cranbrook Shopping Center, Cockeysville, [phone]. This is a much more elaborate restaurant than you'd expect seeing it from the outside. But along with some pretty fancy entrees, the kitchen produces a lot of first courses that are essentially bar food. It turns out this is the kind of food Patrick's does best. The main menu is somewhat expensive, but the section labeled "light fare" makes up for it: The only thing light seems to be the price -- the choices are varied and portions are generous. For the most part, the food is classic American done pretty well. But save room for dessert; the apple pie is outstanding and chocolate lovers will love the chocolate passion cake. $$-$$$ -- moderate to expensive. (Last reviewed 2/93.)

Alonso's, 415 W. Cold Spring Lane, [phone]. This Roland Park night spot's success isn't in spite of its lack of trendiness, but because of it. It serves bar food par excellence. Pizza is what Alonso's does best. There's one size, a medium, and they all cost $9 unless you get plain ($8) or with everything ($10). (It hardly needs to be said that these aren't gourmet toppings like lobster or porcini mushrooms.) Or have one of Alonso's equally ++ famous hamburgers, which are so big you can't get your mouth around them. The rest of our meal seemed like an afterthought on the kitchen's part. $ -- inexpensive. (Last reviewed 2/93.)

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