Nichiban, 1035-37 S. Charles St. (410) 837-0816. Nichiban...

DINING OUT-THE CRITIC'S REPORT

February 27, 1993|By ELIZABETH LARGE | ELIZABETH LARGE,Restaurant Critic

Nichiban, 1035-37 S. Charles St. (410) 837-0816. Nichiban bills itself as a sushi bar first, and the choices are extensive. But my two sushi experts gave the dinners mixed reviews: nothing very negative, but no great enthusiasm either. An overcooked, greasy seafood tempura was a disappointment; try instead the pleasant steak teriyaki. With all the competition around, Nichiban is going to have a hard time drawing people from outside the neighborhood unless some changes are made. There are simply too many good Japanese restaurants in the area. On the plus side, this is a very attractive restaurant, with a nice staff. And a week after my review appeared, it got its liquor license. $$ -- moderate. (Last reviewed 2/93.)

Ruth's Chris Steak House, The Brokerage, 600 Water St. (410) 783-0033. This is not like any chain steak house you've ever been to -- the beautiful dining rooms have a turn-of-the-century elegance and the a la carte entrees average about $20. Certainly these were flawless steaks, USDA Prime. The New York strip was mammoth, well-aged, firm-textured, full of flavor and pink, as ordered. A petite filet was meltingly tender and flavorful. Once past the steaks, though, nothing was quite as perfect as it should have been. $$$$ -- very expensive. (Last reviewed 7/92.)

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