Mamma Lucia


February 13, 1993|By Steve McKerrow

Mamma Lucia 1991 E. Joppa Road, Baltimore. Open 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. Monday through Thursday; 11 a.m. to 11 p.m. Friday and Saturday; noon to 9 p.m. Sunday. (410) 665-5900.

At how many pizza joints can you also get a very nice mussels marinara, with no less than a dozen plump shellfish, heaped on a bed of linguine with a delicately flavored red sauce?

Look for the green-and-white-checked decor of the newest Mamma Lucia restaurant in the area. It opened just last month in the newly renovated Perring Plaza, east of the Perring Parkway/Beltway interchange in Parkville. (Other Mamma Lucias are in Waverly, Owings Mills and Annapolis.)

The menu carries all the usual items of an Italian carryout. The New York or Sicilian pizzas, whole or by the slice, are excellent, DTC and one recent Saturday Mamma Lucia had a good vegetarian pie. Slices start at $1.40; a plain 14-inch "medium" New York pie is $7.95 and a 16-inch Sicilian is $9.95.

Subs and sandwiches include a meatball parmigiana ($4.25) that had four instead of the expected three meatballs. And hot oven items include an average stromboli, a sausage roll and calzone (all $3.50).

But what makes Mamma Lucia special is a surprisingly extensive menu of very good, freshly cooked dishes the likes of which would hardly shame any fancy Little Italy eatery.

Pasta, veal, chicken and seafood meals range from $5.75 for a basic spaghetti with tomato sauce to $9.95 for such ambitious meals as veal alla sorrentina or shrimp fradiavola. Daily specials include non-menu items such as the mussels marinara ($8.95). The portions are generous and non-pasta dishes come with a side of spaghetti or linguine.

Tables accommodate eat-in diners, but the whole menu is available for carryout.

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