Hoang's Seafood Grill, 1619 Sulgrave Ave., (410) 466-1000...

DINING OUT: THE CRITIC'S REPORT

February 13, 1993|By ELIZABETH LARGE | ELIZABETH LARGE,Restaurant Critic

Hoang's Seafood Grill, 1619 Sulgrave Ave., (410) 466-1000. Technically it's a "pan-Asian" restaurant, but owner Nghia Hoang is from Vietnam, and most of the dishes on the menu are Vietnamese. A lot of what we tried was terrific, beginning with our first courses of dumpling soup, shrimp rolls and chicken Mishu. All the grilled foods were good, but my favorite was the juicy, tender chicken. Hoang's also offers several noodle dishes that shouldn't be missed. Typical of Vietnamese cuisine, plates are beautifully arranged with elegant lettuces and decorative vegetables. And this is one Asian restaurant that understands American tastes in dessert: You can finish with tiramisu or three chocolate mousse cake. $$ -- moderate. (Last reviewed 1/93.)

Cadillac Grill, 12 S. Calvert St., (410) 385-2203. Everything was running smoothly at the Cadillac Grill when we ate there except the food. The service was excellent and the decor is off-beat and interesting. As for our food, the more straightforward choices worked best. I can recommend our sandwich -- a good, sloppy seafood version of a reuben with western fries. We were less happy with a steak salad that had blue cheese and Russian dressing and a cup of minestrone that tasted like overly spicy tomato and cabbage soup. The peanut butter sauce with the Thai chicken was hardly a sauce -- it had to be spread on with a knife. But the chicken tasted OK. $$ -- moderate. (Last reviewed 1/93.)

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