Vaccaro's italian pastry shopVaccaro's Italian Pastry...

DINING OUT--THE CRITIC'S REPORT

February 06, 1993|By ELIZABETH LARGE | ELIZABETH LARGE,Restaurant Critic

Vaccaro's italian pastry shop

Vaccaro's Italian Pastry Shop, 222 Albemarle St., (410) 685-4905; Cafe Madeira, 1623 Thames St., (410) 675-7105. If you're interested in something sweet with gourmet coffee, stop in at one of Baltimore's dessert cafes. Vaccaro's and Cafe Madeira are very different in style: The former is big business, with a pretty shop in Little Italy and branches in the malls. It has wonderful ice cream desserts and a lovely assortment of cookies. The pastries interested me less. Cafe Madeira is a quirky little place in Fells Point, with everything from cranberry vTC walnut scones to a homemade dog biscuit for your pet. I'll have a slice of that gorgeous pecan pie, thank you. $ -- inexpensive. (Last reviewed 1/93.)

China Clipper

China Clipper, 1111 Rolling Road, (410) 788-4777. Probably most of China Clipper's customers are going to ignore the squid sauteed with preserved shrimp paste and go for the shrimp in lobster sauce, but it's still nice to know that some things beyond the usual Chinese-American dishes are offered. The filet mignon with black pepper sauce was fabulous, butter-tender and flavorful. And if the lobster and squid hadn't been tough in the seafood casserole, this pretty dish would have been equally good. The rest of our meal was uneven, but this is a restaurant that shows promise. $$ -- moderate. (Last reviewed 1/93.)

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