Rotisseria219 S. Broadway, Baltimore. Open 11 a.m. to 11...

CARRY OUT

February 06, 1993|By Jean Marbella

Rotisseria

219 S. Broadway, Baltimore. Open 11 a.m. to 11 p.m. daily. Call (410) 563-3712.

Spinning chickens are suddenly everywhere, and with gooreason: Rotisserie cooking is one of the healthier modes of cooking, and also among the more flavorful.

Rotisseria in Fells Point is a tiny yet stylish storefront, where you share intimate space with both a rotisserie of revolving chickens and a flat grill for steaks and burgers. And it has the added benefit of an ethnic slant -- the menu, in English and Spanish, traces Rotisseria's lineage to "Peruvian masters" and includes such cross-cultural exotica as yuca, refried beans, spinach and feta pie and pita bread.

The meat's the thing, though, in a place subtitled "Pollo y carne a la brasa" (charbroiled chicken and steak). The chicken, rotated over natural hardwood charcoal, has nicely burnished skin protecting juicy and tasty meat underneath. You can get quarters, halves or whole chickens ranging from $2.75 to $8 or, for a bit more, platters that include two side orders, such as french fries, green salad, yuca and rice.

The marinated and grilled steak is flavorful as well, although the portion is a mite small -- which is healthier for you and your pocketbook anyway. And, like the chicken, you can have it in any number of guises -- rolled up in a pita, or straight up on a platter. There are daily specials as well.

Behind the stylized neon of a mountain and moon on its window, Rotisseria is a warm and friendly place -- there are a few stand-up tables, but the clientele tends to happily share the couple of bar stools available.

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