Lorraine's 9637 Reisterstown Road, Owings Mills. Hours: 11...


December 26, 1992|By Gerri Kobren

Lorraine's 9637 Reisterstown Road, Owings Mills. Hours: 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. Monday through Thursday; 11 a.m. to midnight Friday and Saturday; 4 p.m. to 10 p.m. Sunday. Phone: (410) 356-1616; fax: (410) 356-0609. Running an eat-till-you-pop restaurant along with one that offers good-for-you choices is no easy task, but Lorraine's seems to have mastered the trick, with multicheese and meat-topped pizzas on the same menu as steamed vegetables over whole wheat noodles; Hawaiian burger (topped with Canadian bacon, provolone and a pineapple ring) on the same list as low-fat beef, turkey and vegetable burgers.

The tri-fold carryout menu has almost as many entries as the 10-page eat-in menu, beginning with appetizers and swinging through salads, sandwiches, entrees, flat and fold-over pizzas topped or filled with all manner of lovely things -- Italian cold cuts, cheeses, vegetables or even shrimp -- and desserts.

If you want to join a crowd of beef eaters without actually eating meat yourself, order a Gardenburger, a crisp -- but not greasy -- vegetable patty on a good, chewy kaiser roll, with lettuce and sauteed onions ($4.95).

That's what I did recently, keeping my conscience clear, while my husband, in a more adventurous mood, ordered a Mexican pizza ($8.50), with refried beans, onions, salsa, jalapenoes, olives and Cheddar cheese -- with a great big dollop of sour cream in the middle.

We ordered just one dessert, to share, and he couldn't eat his half. So I had the Belgian chocolate pizza ($3.25 per slice) all to myself -- a wedge of flaky pastry, topped with raspberry glaze, chocolate and sliced kiwi and strawberries -- and worth every luscious calorie!

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