Harryman HouseHarryman House, 340 Main St., Reisterstown...

DINING OUT-THE CRITIC'S REPORT

December 19, 1992|By ELIZABETH LARGE | ELIZABETH LARGE,Restaurant Critic

Harryman House

Harryman House, 340 Main St., Reisterstown, (410) 833-8850. This is a place that's both a special-occasion restaurant and one where you drop in after a hard day at work. The specialty is small-town friendliness, but the Harryman House has some big-time ideas about food, like wild mushroom fricassee and grilled duck breast -- in a setting where you might expect fried chicken and homemade biscuits. That duck breast was the best dish of the evening; we liked the steak Diane and poached salmon, but wished more thought had gone into the presentation. This is a place, by the way, that people who like big portions will love. $$ to $$$ -- moderate to expensive. (Last reviewed 11/92.)

Golden Chopstick

Golden Chopstick, 8025 Harford Road, (410) 668-6868. This is like a good old-fashioned Chinese restaurant, the kind where you didn't get much in the way of atmosphere but you did get good food and good value for your money. The menu is traditional, but look for the few unusual dishes like Sichuan won ton and an interesting version of sesame chicken. You can find won ton soup, beef Hunan style and Tung-Tung shrimp at other restaurants, but I think you'll like the Golden Chopstick's versions -- well balanced with fresh ingredients and nicely done sauces. An interesting historical footnote: The owner's father was the head chef at the venerable Jimmy Wu's. $$ -- moderate. (Last reviewed 11/92.)

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