Al Pacino Cafe, 1109 Light St., (410) 752-2378. Any place...

DINING OUT

December 05, 1992|By ELIZABETH LARGE | ELIZABETH LARGE,Restaurant Critic

Al Pacino Cafe, 1109 Light St., (410) 752-2378. Any place tha bakes its pizza in a wood-burning oven has to be forgiven almost any flaw. So the Al Pacino Cafe has that going for it. But I would stick to one of the pizzas; the rest of what we tried was problematic (except for a good homemade soup). The pizza, though, had that great smoky, wood-fire flavor, chunks of Italian tomatoes, just the right amount of mozzarella, extravagant quantities of pepperoni and a fine homemade sausage. You have 30 different kinds to choose from -- if you like squid or Boursin or falafel on your pizza, this is the place to go. $ -- inexpensive. (Last reviewed 11/92.)

Champagne Tony's, 1006 Light St., (410) 685-8822. The menthat owner and chef Paul Santi a k a Champagne Tony has put together for his new restaurant is a combination of champagne tastes and Grandma's Italian cooking. It's a neighborhood spot with some truly creative dishes: crepes stuffed with fontina, prosciutto and zucchini; veal scaloppine with hazelnuts; swordfish with shrimp mousse; a stuffed chicken breast and risotto. Save room for desserts like Grandma Santi's cannoli and a three-nut chocolate pie. Our meal was uneven, but it showed promise -- this feels like a restaurant that hasn't quite found its feet yet. $$ -- moderate. (Last reviewed 11/92.)

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