A New Take on Turkey Its fat can be reduced, and so can prep time

November 15, 1992|By Marlene Sorosky | Marlene Sorosky,Contributing Writer

The Pilgrims might have preferred cooking a whole turkey to stuffing and roasting only the breast, but they didn't share the concerns of the modern-day cook. Of the original 102 settlers who arrived at Plymouth in the winter of 1620, only 55 were still alive by the spring of 1621, and as far as we know, none of them perished from high cholesterol. Nor were they worried about dressing and cooking the bird ahead, carving it neatly, or surviving the feast without blowing their diet.

Marinating and stuffing the breast and using the marinade for the sauce eliminates the fatty skin and dark meat, the butter and oil for basting and the calorie-laden gravy. And you won't have to get up at the crack of dawn to stuff and truss it. The rolled breast can be prepared and roasted a day ahead, leaving the oven free for the accompaniments. Just be sure to allow 18 to 24 hours for the meat to marinate. When you taste the succulent white meat wrapped around moist dressing and capped with a crisp stuffing crust, you won't feel one bit deprived -- it's a multisensual taste treat.

If boning a turkey breast is not high on your list of talents, call ahead and ask the butcher to do it. Order a whole 5- to 6-pound breast, boned and butterflied. You might ask to have it pounded, but it's easy and therapeutic to do it yourself. A round metal disc pounder with a handle protruding from the center is easier to work with than the hammer variety, but even a rolling pin will do the job.

After the meat is pummeled and marinated, it is spread with spinach-pecan stuffing, rolled up and tied. (You don't need a lesson in meat tying; any type of knots or bows will do.) Halfway through the baking time, an egg white is spread over the top to glue the remainder of the stuffing in place and keep it there when the meat is carved.

Coating carrots with a buttery, brown sugar glaze has become a classic preparation, but adding rosy-colored cranberry sauce makes a great dish even better. To reduce prep time, look for peeled and trimmed baby carrots in the produce section of your supermarket.

Although wild rice may not grace our Thanksgiving tables as often as sweet potatoes, it is a native seed, harvested on U.S. soil long before white man stepped foot on it. Even today, 85 percent of the wild rice raised in this country is produced by Indians. One of the best recipes I know is prepared with leeks and dried apples and comes from Dean Faring, chef at a Mansion on Turtle Creek in Dallas. His version calls for lots of heavy cream, but substituting chicken broth for a good portion of it results in a marvelously creamy dish. The nutty rice, salty ham ++ and sweet fruit harmonize together like a well-struck chord.

No matter how you celebrate this day -- with pumpkin pie or scoops of non-fat pumpkin yogurt, turkey sliced in the traditional way or rolled in the modern style -- it's still a time for good old-fashioned thanks.

@Spinach-pecan stuffed

roast breast of turkey

Preparation time: 45 minutes.

Bake time: about 1 hour and 30 minutes.

Advance preparation: Marinate 18 to 24 hours before cooking. May be roasted a day ahead and reheated.

Serves eight to 12.

1 whole turkey breast, skinned, boned and butterflied, 4 to 5 pounds net weight (about 5 1/2 to 7 pounds with bones)

MARINADE:

juice and grated peel from 3 medium oranges (about 1 cup juice)

2/3 cup balsamic vinegar

4 tablespoons olive oil

4 tablespoons honey

STUFFING:

2 tablespoons olive oil

2 onions, chopped

2 cups fresh chopped spinach, washed, dried and chopped into bite-size pieces

1 1/2 cups packaged corn bread stuffing (such as Pepperidge Farm)

2 1/2 cups chopped pecans, toasted at 350 degrees until golden

1 tablespoon prepared mustard

1/4 cup chicken broth

2 eggs or 1/2 cup egg substitute

1 egg white mixed with 1 teaspoon water for brushing on turkey

GLAZE AND SAUCE:

reserved marinade

1 cup dry red wine

3/4 cup chicken broth

1/4 cup honey

salt and pepper to taste

1 tablespoon cornstarch mixed with 1 tablespoon water

OPTIONAL GARNISH:

orange slices

greens such as spinach or parsley

EQUIPMENT:

kitchen twine

meat thermometer

Rinse and dry turkey breast. Pound lightly to make as even as possible. Place in a shallow dish.

To make marinade: Mix all ingredients in small bowl. Pour over turkey, turning to coat both sides. Cover and refrigerate overnight, turning once or twice.

To make stuffing: In a large skillet, heat oil over moderate heat until hot. Saute onion until soft. Add spinach and saute, stirring until wilted and onions are tender. Remove to a large bowl and stir in corn bread stuffing, pecans, mustard, eggs and broth.

To assemble turkey: Remove turkey from marinade. Dry well and place on work surface skin side down. Set marinade aside. Sprinkle meat with salt and pepper and spread with half the stuffing. Beginning with a short end, roll up as for a jelly roll; do not be concerned with torn or uneven pieces of meat. Tie with string at 1-inch intervals. Sprinkle with salt and pepper.

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