Middle East Cafe, 3501 St. Paul St., (410) 235-0444. When...


November 14, 1992|By ELIZABETH LARGE | ELIZABETH LARGE,Restaurant Critic

Middle East Cafe, 3501 St. Paul St., (410) 235-0444. When the Middle East Cafe first opened in the Marylander Apartments and served exclusively ethnic dishes, our waiter told us, it lost a lot of its regulars. That explains why now its Mideast offerings are so sketchy in spite of the extensive menu. What there is is decent enough, and you can also get homey food like fresh ham, mashed potatoes and turkey with gravy. Breakfast is also served seven days a week from 7 a.m. It's probably the only coffee shop in the city where you can get baba ghannouj and falafel. $ -- inexpensive. (Last reviewed 10/92.)

Nyammin's Karibe Kafe, 322 N. Charles St., (410) 783-1533. Baltimore has a couple of other places where you can get Caribbean food, but Nyammin's is the most ambitious, with a splashy decor, full bar and live reggae music Saturday nights. The food is as explosive as the decor -- don't go if you can't stand the heat. Try the Boston jerk pork or Nyammin's chicken and be prepared for your hair to stand on end! Order a couple of side dishes to help put out the fire: perhaps fried plantain or bammie, a fried corn bread. If you prefer your food not quite so spicy, a good choice would be snapper Palisadoes, a whole stuffed fish. $ to $$ -- inexpensive to moderate. (Last reviewed 10/92.)

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