These 1991 German wines stand out

November 08, 1992|By Michael Dresser

The 1991 vintage of German wines will never be famous for an abundance of highly prized sweet wines, but it produced very fine wines in the qualitatswein (QbA), kabinett and spatlese classifications.

Among the top performers (with region) in the Terry Theise portfolio in the 1991 vintage were Muller-Catoir (Pfalz); Hermann Donnhoff (Nahe); Kurt Darting (Pfalz); Adolf Weingart (Mittelrhein); Selbach-Oster (Mosel-Saar-Ruwer); Heribert Kerpen (Mosel-Saar-Ruwer); Weingut Merz (Rheinhessen); K. Neckerauer (Pfalz); Joseph Biffar (Pfalz); Strub (Rheinhessen); Freiherr von Heddesdorf (Mosel-Saar-Ruwer); Christoffel (Mosel-Saar-Ruwer); Willi Schaefer (Mosel-Saar-Ruwer); Immich-Batterieberg (Mosel-Saar-Ruwer); Reuscher-Haart (Mosel-Saar-Ruwer); Eugen Muller (Pfalz); Weingut Meulenhof (Mosel-Saar-Ruwer).

Wines are listed according to classification. Trocken and halbtrocken are basically dry wines, though they can be made from very ripe grapes that would normally be used for sweet wine. Qualitatswein is the introductory level of good German wine; most are dry to semisweet and are made with added sugar.

"Qualitatswein mit pradikat" wines include no added sugar, and there are five classes of ripeness: kabinett (generally off-dry), spatlese (lightly sweet); auslese (sweet); beerenauslese (very sweet); and trockenbeerenauslese (even sweeter). Eiswein, a special category, is also sweet.

Many, but not all, of these producers' wines are available in Maryland. The following are a few personal choices that will likely be available in the state.

Trocken

* 1991 Ockenheimer Laberstall Riesling Kabinett Trocken, Weingut Merz ($10)

* 1991 Niersteiner Rehbach Riesling Kabinett Trocken, J.u.H.A. Strub ($10)

Halbtrocken

* 1991 Urziger Wurzgarten Riesling Kabinett Halbtrocken, Joh. Jos. Christoffel ($12)

* 1991 Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Spatlese Trocken, Heribert Kerpen ($15)

* 1991 Weisenheimer Altenberg Riesling Spatlese Halbtrocken (#54), K. Neckerauer ($13)

* 1991 Bopparder Hamm Feuerlay Riesling Auslese Halbtrocken, Adolf Weingart ($16)

Qualitatswein

* 1991 Oberemmeler Rosenberg Riesling Hochgewachs, Reichsgraff von Kesselstat ($11)

* 1991 Koberner Weisenberg Riesling, Freiherr von Schleinitz ($9)

* 1991 Graacher Himmelreich Riesling Hochgewachs, Willi Schaefer ($11)

* 1991 Urziger Wurzgarten Riesling Hochgewachs (#11), Alfred Merkelbach ($11)

* 1991 Bopparder Hamm Feuerlay Riesling Hochgewachs, Adolf Weingart ($11)

Kabinett

* 1991 Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Kabinett, Heribert Kerpen ($13)

* 1991 Graacher Himmelreich Riesling Kabinett, Willi Schaefer ($13)

* 1991 Zeltinger Sonnenuhr Riesling Kabinett, Selbach-Oster ($12)

* 1991 Oestricher Lenchen Riesling Kabinett, August Eser ($15)

Spatlese

* 1991 Graacher Domprobst Riesling Spatlese, Willi Schaefer ($16)

* 1991 Urziger Wurzgarten Riesling Spatlese (#14), Alfred Merkelbach ($14)

* 1991 Kaseler Nies'chen Riesling Spatlese, Weingut Karlsmuhle * 1991 Zeltinger Sonnenuhr Riesling Kabinett (#49), Selbach-Oster ($15)

* 1991 Zeltinger Sonnenuhr Riesling Kabinett gold cap, Selbach-Oster ($18)

* 1991 Weisenheimer Hasenzelle Riesling Spatlese, K. Neckerauer ($14)

Auslese

* 1991 Graacher Domprobst Riesling Auslese, Selbach-Oster ($16)

* 1991 Bacharacher Hahn Riesling Auslese, Toni Jost ($30)

* 1991 Bopparder Hamm Ohlenberg Riesling Auslese, Adolf Weingart ($16)

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