Charcoal Deli

CARRY OUT

October 24, 1992|By Kevin Cowherd

CHARCOAL DELI 22 Church Lane, Cockeysville. Hours: Open daily 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. Call (410) 666-3730.

Location-wise, this place is good for the soul, as it stands hard by St. Joseph's Church. Enterprising diners, therefore, might think about popping in to say a few prayers before picking up their order.

The Charcoal Deli also has terrific food, claiming Baltimore'Best Pit Beef sandwich ($3.55). Look, I know pit beef. I've eaten pit beef for years. And believe me, this is great pit beef, right up there with any you've had in a while.

On a recent visit, though, I went for the grilled shark sandwich ($4.75) cooked Cajun-style, whatever that is. Generally speaking, always leery about ordering seafood in a place that specializes in beef, but this shark fillet was fresh and had a zesty flavor.

Blowing the diet completely, I also ordered some Buffalo wings ($3.95 for 10 wings), which, for a spice freak, were not quite hot enough.

Other house specialties are barbecued baby back ribs ($8.95 fofull order, $4.95 for a half rack) and barbecued chicken ($7.25).

Also featured are "Ocean fries," ($2.35 for a regular portion) which can be ordered with toppings such as melted Cheddar and, if you can believe it, chopped beef and chili -- apparently for those who think this whole cholesterol business is way overstated.

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