Boccaccio, 925 Eastern Ave., (410) 234-1322. Put aside your preconceptions about Little Italy restaurants when you enter Boccaccio. The simple grilled fish and meats are great, as are the escargots in puff pastry and carpaccio for first courses.
Equally good are dishes like veal medallions and artichokes and stuffed squid. Add a thoughtful wine list and some of the best bread in Little Italy (three different kinds), and you have one of the best new places in Baltimore. $$$ -- expensive. (Last reviewed 9/92.)
Calo's, 4201 Belair Road, (410) 325-6909. Calo's is that small, friendly neighborhood restaurant that you wish you had in your neighborhood. It's open for breakfast, lunch and dinner; and both the food and the staff have personality.