Egyptian Pizza542 E. Belvedere Ave., Belvedere Square...

CARRY OUT

September 26, 1992|By J.D. Considine

Egyptian Pizza

542 E. Belvedere Ave., Belvedere Square, Govans. Hours: 11:30 a.m. to 11 p.m. Sunday through Thursday; 11:30 a.m. to midnight Friday and Saturday. (410) 323-7060. It's hard to impress guests with take-out pizza, unless you've got an especially speedy deliveryman ("Say, how come you folks have skid marks on your driveway?"). Yet Egyptian Pizza has dazzled even friends from such pizza-saturated cities as Chicago and New York.

How so? Some of it has to do with the flavor added by the wood-burning oven, and some with the range of foodstuffs offered. Sure, some other pizzerias serve pasta (though at Egyptian Pizza, the linguine and fettuccine is eat-in only), but how many also offer falafel, hummus, stuffed grape leaves or foul (an Egyptian fava bean paste that's anything but foul)?

Mostly, though, it's the pizzas themselves, daringly distinctive combinations of meat, cheese and vegetables that will leave you wondering what you ever saw in pepperoni. Take, for example, the Four Seasons, a vegetarian delight that tops the usual tomato and mozzarella with alternating sections of spinach, broccoli, artichoke hearts and mushrooms. Or my personal favorite, the Sharm El-Sheq, a luscious concoction of smoked salmon, salmon caviar, slivered scallions and Boursin cheese. Try finding that at Domino's!

All pizzas come in small (which is a plate-sized, eight inches wide) and medium sizes, and are not unreasonably priced (from $5.95 to $7.95 for the small, $7.95 to $10.95 for medium). It's also worth asking about the day's specials; one of the more memorable was a pesto, shrimp, mozzarella and sun-dried tomato pizza I'd gladly eat again.

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