Sunrise2051 E. Joppa Road, Satyr Hill Shopping Center...


September 12, 1992|By Ed Brandt


2051 E. Joppa Road, Satyr Hill Shopping Center. Hours: Monday through Thursday, 11:30 a.m. to 10 p.m; Friday and Saturday, 11:30 a.m. to 11:30 p.m.; Sunday, 4 p.m. to 9 p.m. (410) 668-1330. President Bush and Bill Clinton can find the latest political cliches in full operation at the Sunrise. There, father, mother, sons and daughters exhibit family values and work ethic at their best while politely dispensing steaming packages of Chinese carryout every day of the week.

I'm cautious when it comes to the mysteries of a lengthy Chinese menu. I won't go beyond chicken chow mein without repeated assurances -- maybe even a signed statement -- from my daughter that moo goo gai pan is not an invention of the Devil.

But I can attest to the mildness of the Sunrise's chicken chow mein, a sufficient main course created in the best tradition of Chinese-American food. A quart of white meat chow mein ($9.20, including rice and dried noodles) and a side order of two shrimp egg rolls ($3.15) is enough for three people, four if my mother-in-law is visiting. The egg rolls are usually a little leathery, but some people like them that way.

When you call the Sunrise, you will most likely hear a polite, young voice requesting your order. After a brief conversation, the polite, young voice says "15 minutes." You can count on it.

Sunrise offers all the standard fare, plus a lengthy list of Sichuan-style food I haven't tried yet. Maybe the next time.

Sunrise also offers luncheon special platters, combination dinners for two and the traditional list of side orders. Prices seem to be in line with other Chinese carryouts.

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