The Hobbit: nice view, delicate sauces

RESTAURANT REVIEW

September 06, 1992|By Greg Tasker | Greg Tasker,Staff Writer

I thought I had beheld every panaromic view of the bay. Then I discovered the Hobbit.

The restaurant affords a sweeping view of the water and adjacent wetlands from its spacious dining room. Visitors are given the illusion of seclusion. But you'll soon realize you're sharing this view with dozens of other diners.

We had heard wonderful things about the Hobbit, particularly about the rich sauces that accentuate the seafood and other dishes.

Ever money-conscious, we arrived early to take advantage of at least one of the restaurant's early-bird specials (to complement, of course, a regular-priced dinner entree). By arriving early, we also secured a bayside table.

The Hobbit presents an appealing selection of appetizers, including some intriguing items. Two of note were: brie and fruit ($6.95), a petite wheel of oven-warmed brie topped with toasted almonds and served with fresh fruit, and stuffed artichoke hearts ($7.95) with lump crab imperial and baked with Cheddar cheese.

From the early-bird menu, we ordered the stuffed flounder ($9.95), a wonderful fin fish filled with crab imperial and lightly topped with a delicate sauce. We also tried the roast prime filet ($19.95), a 10-ounce filet glazed with Worcestershire sauce and dusted with seasonings, and found it to be tender and succulent.

Neither entrees, though, were representative of the varied and interesting dinner menu here. For example, the Hobbit offers veau aux pistaches ($18.95), thin scallops of veal gently coated with flour and sauteed to a golden brown. The veal was deglazed with Madeira wine, simmered with cream, mushrooms, prosciutto ham and pistachios.

Children fare well too with their own menu. Our 10-year-old ordered fried chicken ($4.50), which featured boneless breasts served with tasty French fries.

We couldn't resist the Hobbit's homemade desserts. Mary's delight ($3.50) was a delicious concoction with a crushed walnut crust, layered with cream cheese and chocolate pudding, and topped with whipped cream and chocolate shavings.

Another tempting treat was Chambord cake, a moist raspberry bundt cake flavored with raspberry liqueur and frosted with whipped cream.

The Hobbit

81st Street and the bay, (410) 524-8100.

Hours: Dinner, 5 p.m. to 10 p.m. daily.

Credit cards: Visa and MasterCard.

Non-smoking?: Yes.

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