Fager's Island scores an 'A' on doner's report card

RESTAURANT REVIEW

August 23, 1992|By Greg Tasker | Greg Tasker,Staff Writer

We didn't stay long enough to see the famed sunset at Fager's Island. We should have, but dinner had already become a more than two-hour affair and the kids were restless.

As the "1812 Overture" played, we could have marveled at the sun setting -- breathed a final sigh of wonder when the last cannon fired as the sun disappeared behind Assawoman Bay.

But the truth is we were already enchanted -- bewitched by wine, food, service and atmosphere at this bayside restaurant.

Dinner began with crab gazpacho ($5.95), a cold, tomato and vegetable soup with generous pieces of crab. Slightly spicy, the soup was wonderful.

Before our entrees arrived, we were served loaves of warm white bread, topped with honey butter. The bread is made especially for Fager's and baked on the premises.

The adults in our party ordered scallops ($19.95), a filet mignon and crab cake combination ($22.50), and filet mignon ($22.50).

The scallops, cooked in a basil, butter and lime sauce, were tender and savory. The filets were tender and cooked to perfection. The crab cakes -- made with fresh garlic -- were among the tastiest we have sampled since arriving on the Eastern Shore.

Fager's menu consists primarily of seafood and beef entrees, which start at $15.95.

Entrees are served with a salad, starch and vegetable -- fresh VTC green beans on the evening we visited. Everything was delicious.

Fager's Island doesn't have a children's menu. The children, we were told, were free to share from our plates. And they did. The portions here are generous. There's also a variety of seafood appetizers that could adequately pass as meals for children.

There's more than food to be savored at Fager's Island. The restaurant has a stunning view of the bay. After dinner, you're free to walk along the footbridges, pier and gazebo on the premises, framed by wetlands.

The restaurant also has an award-winning wine list -- the best we've perused so far in Ocean City. We ordered a bottle of Ravenswood Vintners Blend Merlot (California, 1990 -- $21), a pleasing dry wine with distinct chocolate and berry characteristics.

Nothing here is less than perfect. The service was impeccableOur waiter, Steve, was courteous and knowledgeable about the menu and wine list.

We didn't leave Fager's Island without sampling dessert. We indulged in a derby pie ($3.95) -- not the mass-produced confectionary -- but a homemade concoction, featuring pecans and chocolate chips. We also ordered a chocolate mousse cake with coffee liqueur ($3.95). Both were exquisite.

F: Fager's Island is fine dining at its best in Ocean City.

Fager's Island

Where: 60th Street and the bay; (410) 524-5500.

Hours: Dinner, 5:30 p.m-11 p.m.; lunch and light fare, 11 a.m.-11 p.m.

Credit cards: Visa, MC, American Express, Diner's Club.

Non-smoking section?: No.

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