Minnesota is concert of color as leaves turn gold and umber


August 23, 1992|By Mary Mapes McConnell | Mary Mapes McConnell,Contributing Writer

The annual fall migration of maple leaf spotters to New England is a travel industry all its own, and Colorado's golden aspens have legions of fans. Less well-known are the red oak forests of southeastern Minnesota. These dense woodlands produce a tonal range that color connoisseurs appreciate for its depth and richness.

The Chosen Valley, 100 miles southeast of Minneapolis-St. Paul on U.S. Highway 52 and 10 miles south of Interstate 90, marks the beginning of the only area in Minnesota that wasn't scraped flat by glaciers during the last ice age -- a fact that sets it apart not only geographically but socially.

This hilly, heavily wooded region is rural, traditional and picturesque. Family farms are small: pastures interspersed with wood lots, cornfields lying along river bottoms, and farmyards where pigs and chickens are out in the open air. Whether you're in a car or on a bicycle, you'll find great leaf-viewing with

out the traffic that plagues fall excursions to better known areas. And, country folks are willing to stop and chat, suggest things to see and give directions.

A group of private citizens in Chatfield, a charming town of 2,000, has printed up several self-drive leaf tours. Averaging 15 miles each, the itineraries are annotated with historical and contemporary commentary and mile-by-mile driving instructions. Several ofthe tours follow the various branches of the Root River, which flows east through the Chosen Valley on its way to the Mississippi.

The Loughrey Valley Tour follows the middle fork of the Root River and offers some of the area's best color. The hills above the river and its tributary creeks are blanketed with oak, maple, walnut, elm and hickory -- part of the primeval hardwood forest that once covered much of the East and Midwest and survives today only in areas too steep for agriculture. Although predominantly oak, the variety of species forms a symphony of color. From clear top notes of yellow and chartreuse, the scale runs through oranges and scarlets to bass notes of raw umber and burnt sienna.

The Stone Barn Tour features an immense drive-through barn that measures 100 feet long by 40 feet wide. The structure was built in the late 19th century by Tom Ferguson, a traditional stonemason who cut more than 100 cords of stone in a nearby quarry and hauled them to the site in a horse-drawn stone-boat. With his horse powering a gin pole, he lifted the blocks three stories high and laid them with mortar made from burned lime rock. Gary and Deb Anderson, the current owners, welcome visitors to stop and look at this masterpiece.

Schoolhouse gallery

Just north of Chatfield, Harvey Bernard's art studio and gallery is located in the one-room schoolhouse that Mr. Bernard attended as a child. Visitors can sit at antique cast-iron and maple desks, a few bearing the carved initials of former pupils, write on genuine slate blackboards and even ring the original school bell. Mr.Bernard's highly detailed pen and ink silhouettes depict the era of farming when horsepower was giving way to tractor power. The designs are silk-screened on pine plaques of various sizes. More than one hundred designs, which are marketed nationally, are for sale.

Visitors to the Chosen Valley often base their excursions out of Lund's Guest House in Chatfield. Two cottages, with a total of nine rooms, are decorated in the style of the '20s and '30s. The only concessions that innkeepers Shelby and Marion Lund have made to modernity are the mattresses and the microwave. Everything else is authentic to the period: art deco bedroom sets, claw foot bathtubs, working Victrolas, console radios, a piano with period sheet music and Chinese checkers.

One of the Midwest's premiere bicycle trails starts 11 miles south of Chatfield near the town of Fountain. A black-topped pathway follows the old Milwaukee Road rail bed 30 miles to the town of Rushford. Its route roughly parallels the Root River, so riders starting at Fountain have the advantage of traveling downriver. It takes a strong rider to complete the round trip in one day. Many cyclists do a car shuttle between the trail-head and the old depot in Rushford, both of which have ample parking.

A few miles into the ride, you'll pass the Old Barn Hostel. This small resort is centered around a huge renovated barn that originally sheltered race horses. The Old Barn provides trailer hookups and both dormitory and private rooms that are reasonably priced. Its indoor-outdoor pool is open 10 months a year and is available to both overnight guests and drop-in visitors. The restaurant is a favorite with locals, and the hostel's owners offer guided tours of nearby Amish farms.

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