The Milton Inn, 14833 York Road, Sparks. (410) 771-4366...

DINING OUT/THE CRITICS' REPORT

August 08, 1992|By MARY MAUSHARD | MARY MAUSHARD,Staff Writer Staff Writer Staff Writer

The Milton Inn, 14833 York Road, Sparks. (410) 771-4366. The Milton Inn is a fine restaurant in a beautiful old stone house on York Road north of Hunt Valley. The gardens are well-tended, the dining rooms gracious, the service professional, the food innovative. The menu at the Milton Inn is small, but interesting, with the emphasis on seasonal Maryland cuisine. There were, for instance, soft-shell crabs, York County tomatoes and Eastern Shore corn among the offerings. The portions aren't large, though the presentation is beautiful and the flavors true. Our waitress was knowledgeable and efficient, and the meal was well-paced. But there wasn't much warmth to her manner. $$$ -- expensive. (Last visited 7/92). Poulet, 1340 Reisterstown Road, (410) 484-9400. Don't compare it to a restaurant, compare it to McDonald's. For those times when you want fast food but want more of a meal than a hamburger and fries, Poulet is perfect. You'll get chicken that's crisp-skinned and moist because it's cooked on rotisseries imported from France. With it come two vegetables or salads; you choose them from the steam table cafeteria style. My advice is to get in and out fast, though, because the dining room is noisy and crowded. $ -- inexpensive. (Last reviewed 7/92.)

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ELIZABETH LARGE John Steven Ltd., 1800 Thames St., (410) 327-5561. This Fells-Point-funky tavern has had steamed seafood and sushi for years, but it started serving serious food when it opened its all-weather patio out back. The quality is uneven, but the selections are inventive and some of the food is very good,

whether you feel like a salad, hamburger or seafood with fresh vegetables. $$ -- moderate. (Last reviewed 8/92.)

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ELIZABETH LARGE

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