Babusci's, 413 S. High St., (410) 539-1531. Babusci's is...

DINING OUT -- THE CRITICS REPORT

August 01, 1992|By MARY MAUSHARD | MARY MAUSHARD,Staff Writer Staff Writer Staff Writer

Babusci's, 413 S. High St., (410) 539-1531. Babusci's is th Little Italy restaurant with the "bubble" that protrudes onto Eastern Avenue. It's a charming, small place with an attractive dining room and good food. Inside the "bubble," a sort of greenhouse extension of the dining room, are several tables that give you a view of the street and the sky. Unfortunately, the service was sluggish and not very friendly, though this may have been an aberration on an unusually busy -- the waitress said -- weeknight. The house salad is delicious and the pasta excellent. -- moderate. (Last visited 6/92.)

Chiapparelli's, 237 S. High St., (410) 837-0309. The best thing about Little Italy's restaurants is that you can come away from a pretty ordinary meal fairly happy because of the atmosphere and service -- as we did from Chiapparelli's. The highlights of our meal, such as they were, included fat homemade ravioli and a grilled chicken with fettuccine alfredo. You may be disappointed in the vaunted Chiapparelli's salad, as we were. But even if you think the food is unremarkable, you'll still find this a likable restaurant. $$/$$$ -- moderate to expensive. (Last reviewed 7/92.)

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ELIZABETH LARGE Ruth's Chris Steak House, The Brokerage, 600 Water St., (410) 783-0033. This is not like any other chain steak house you've ever been to -- the beautiful dining rooms have a turn-of-the-century elegance and the a la carte entrees average about $20. Certainly these were flawless steaks, U.S. Prime. The New York strip was mammoth, well-aged, firm-textured, full of flavor and pink as ordered. A petite filet was meltingly tender and flavorful. Once past the steaks, though, nothing was quite so perfect as it should have been. $$$$ -- very expensive. (Last reviewed 7/92.)

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ELIZABETH LARGE

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