Reisterstown Road. Hours: 10 a.m...


July 04, 1992|By Andrea F. Siegel

MILK & HONEY BISTRO 1777 Reisterstown Road. Hours: 10 a.m. to 8 p.m. Sundays; 8 a.m. to 8 p.m. Mondays through Thursdays; 8 a.m. to 3 p.m. Fridays; 2 hours after sundown Saturday to 1:30 a.m. Sunday. (410) 486-4344. If vegetarian fast foods translate to you as paltry meals only a rabbit can appreciate, you haven't been to Milk & Honey.

There's no meat to be had here, but you won't miss it. This is a kosher vegetarian, dairy and fish place, serving up as hearty or as light a meal as suits you. Soups, sandwiches, salads, quiches, baked fish, pancakes, spaghetti, macaroni and cheese -- quite a variety. Most of the food is homemade, not particularly spicy, yet rich in flavor.

You'd be cheating yourself out of the best homemade bargain the bistro has to offer if you walk out without a hunk of hot noodle kugel ($1.75). A good 3 inches high, this is weighty stuff, practically a lunch in itself: Juicy raisins tucked among layer upon layer of tender noodles get a zing from a healthy dose of cinnamon. The moist kugel reheats incredibly well.

We also had a tuna sandwich ($3.95), made crunchy with diced celery, that balanced staying moist without leaving the bread soggy. Potato chips, pickles and cole slaw came with it.

They'll put anything on a bagel. We saw a few of those go by: a bagel smothered with scrambled eggs ($1.95), a bagel with a hefty slab of cream cheese inside ($1.45). A slice of mildly spiced pizza ($1.29), oozing tomato sauce, thrilled our 4-year-old.

Indulge yourself in a chocolate egg cream, with a thick head of foam (95 cents medium, but treat yourself to a large, $1.15).

The baked rainbow trout dinner ($10.95), one of four fish dinners, starts with your pick of the soup of the day ($1.95 a bowl if ordered alone) or a salad. It's accompanied by rather ordinary cooked vegetables, but the home fries -- bite-sized chunks of potato covered in paprika and accented by green peppers ($1.25 for a small side-dish, $1.65 large, by themselves) -- are superb.

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