The Spirit of Baltimore,The Spirit of Baltimore, 801 Key...

DINING OUT -- THE CRITICS' REPORT

June 20, 1992|By MARY MAUSHARD | MARY MAUSHARD,Staff Writer Pearson's, Staff Writer Hacha's Deep Sea Grille, Staff Writer

The Spirit of Baltimore,

The Spirit of Baltimore, 801 Key Highway, (410) 523-7447. Sunday brunch aboard a new ship sounds like a great idea. Unfortunately, we were disappointed by the mediocre food, unnecessary entertainment and spotty service on our recent cruise. The mood is festive and the scenery interesting, but the buffet leaves a lot to be desired. The coffee wasn't hot and the pancakes looked too gooey to try. The meal started strong with a good fresh fruit salad and a basket of breads, but it had little follow-through. $$ -- moderate. (Last visited 5/92.) Pearson's, 808 Westminster Pike, Reisterstown, (410) 833-3994. You might not guess that Pearson's is the country cousin of the Brass Elephant, Fiori and King's Contrivance; but it is. It's very much in the mold of a lot of new restaurants these days -- the food is casual, the atmosphere laid-back, prices are moderate. The quality of our meal was uneven, but some things worked very well: a char-broiled top sirloin steak, grilled potatoes, baked-on-the-premises bread, a slice of Snickers pie. And the service was first-rate. $$ -- moderate. (Last reviewed 6/92.)

ELIZABETH LARGE Hacha's Deep Sea Grille, 2701 N. Charles St., (410) 235-7675. Hacha's is another Tio Pepe spin-off -- the chef, Angel Sanz, cooked delicious Spanish and Continental dishes when he was there, and he's still turning out shrimp in garlic sauce, paella, spinach with grapes and pine nuts and, of course, roll cakes. While the menu has a definite Spanish accent, you'll find lots of American seafood as well. Our meal was excellent, but lonely: not many people have found their way to Hacha's yet. $$-$$$ -- moderate to expensive. (Last visited 5/92.)

ELIZABETH LARGE

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