TersiguelTersiguel, 8293 Main St., Ellicott City, (410...

DINING OUT -- THE CRITICS' REPORT

May 09, 1992|By MARY MAUSHARD | MARY MAUSHARD,Staff Writer L&N Seafood Staff Writer China Palace Staff Writer

Tersiguel

Tersiguel, 8293 Main St., Ellicott City, (410) 465-4004. Tersiguel is a delightful place to dine. In fact, it's the best I've found in two years of reviewing restaurants. Housed in a large, old home in the historic district, Tersiguel offers beautiful French country surroundings; proper, but friendly service; and wonderful, consistently wonderful, food. Between the menu and the specials there were so many delicious-sounding dishes we couldn't decide what not to have. The rockfish en croute ($18.95) was tender and flavorful with a crust of thinly sliced potatoes. The filet mignon with shiitake mushrooms ($18.95) was rich and did indeed melt in your mouth. And guess what? The chocolate mousse was perfect. $$$ - expensive. (Last visited 4/92). L&N Seafood, 401 York Road, (410) 825-6081. L&N may be part of a nationwide chain, but it's as good a place as any in the area to get a moderately priced fish dinner. Of course, Baltimoreans have to get over the shock of finding no crab on the menu. (When the price of crab meat goes down, you'll see crab cakes as a special.) Try the mesquite-grilled fish or the New Orleans seafood platter. With your main course come biscuits and all the salad you can eat, good potatoes and fresh vegetables. Be warned, though: When this place gets discovered, it'll be a zoo. $$ -- moderate. (Last visited 4/92.)

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ELIZABETH LARGE China Palace, 3333 Greenmount Ave., (410) 889-0288. It's been around for six years as a Chinese restaurant, but now it's an Indonesian restaurant as well, with a separate menu and its own Indonesian chef. Don't look for atmosphere from this unprepossessing little place, but do expect good food. Our favorites: shredded jelly fish salad (try it); a tender, spicy chicken dish called ayam rica rica; and a super vegetarian selection, oseng oseng sayuran. Stay away from the hot and sour fish soup, which tastes like chunks of fish swimming in hot pineapple

juice. $ -- inexpensive. (Last reviewed 5/92.)

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ELIZABETH LARGE

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