Rio LisboaRio Lisboa, 4700 Eastern Ave., (410) 522-5092...

DINING OUT -- THE CRITICS'REPORT

April 04, 1992|By MARY MAUSHARD | MARY MAUSHARD,Staff Writer Nam Kang, Staff Writer Pavilion at the Walters Staff Writer

Rio Lisboa

Rio Lisboa, 4700 Eastern Ave., (410) 522-5092. You can have a lot of fun and a lot of good food without spending a lot of money at Rio Lisboa, the Brazilian-Portuguese restaurant on Eastern Avenue. It's a lively place with big art on the walls, friendly servers and a clientele that seems happy to be there. For newcomers, the menu, with only brief English descriptions, is a little baffling, so plan to ask a few questions. Plan, too, to go when you are hungry; the portions are large, the side dishes numerous and the flavors captivating. The churrasco misto, a mixed shish kebab, offered a chicken breast, a pork chop, a small steak and some wonderful sausage. All delicious. $$ -- moderate. (Last visited 2/92). Nam Kang, 2126 Maryland Ave., (410) 685-6237. Most of Nam Kang's customers seem to be Korean-Americans, so the menu isn't geared to those who are newcomers to Korean cuisine. Expect a good but fiery meal. Start with kim chee, an assortment of colorful, pickled and highly spiced vegetables. Follow it with a clear soup, a Korean pancake as big as a plate, one of the assorted seafood dishes or bulgoki, thinly sliced barbecued beef. $ to $$ -- inexpensive to moderate. (Last reviewed 3/92).

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ELIZABETH LARGE Pavilion at the Walters, Walters Art Gallery, 600 N. Charles St., (410) 727-2233. The Pavilion is now serving dinner Thursday and Friday nights. Though limited, the menu is imaginative and the food handsomely done. And, of course, this is one of the most intriguing dining spaces in the city. My personal favorite was the tuna -- charcoal-striped, moist and rare at the center like a good steak. It would be hard to beat for looks and flavor, but the tender, grilled veal steak on a bed of cabbage with wild mushrooms came close. $$$ -- expensive. (Last reviewed 3/92).

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ELIZABETH LARGE

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