Leilani's of Hawaii,Leilani's of Hawaii, 889 Howard St...

DINING OUT -- THE CRITICS' REPORT

March 28, 1992|By MARY MAUSHARD | MARY MAUSHARD,Staff Writer Baltimore Baking Co., Staff Writer Hampton's, Staff Writer

Leilani's of Hawaii,

Leilani's of Hawaii, 889 Howard St., (410) 225-2610. Just as the Hawaiian Islands are an oasis in the vast Pacific, Leilani's of Hawaii is an oasis on Howard Street. Close by the new light rail line near the north end of Antique Row, this is an elegant, if somewhat eclectic, restaurant. The decor is formal, the table settings elegant, the color scheme a rich green. This is not a fast-paced restaurant; plan to stay awhile. The service is congenial, if somewhat uneven. The menu offers a nice selection of seafood, veal, chicken and combinations of these. We particularly enjoyed the excellent Caesar salad. $$ 1/2 -- moderately expensive. (Last visited 2/92). Baltimore Baking Co., 19-20 S. Gay St., (410) 752-1482. This new lunch spot used to be L'Ecole, and it's still the training restaurant for the Baltimore International Culinary College. It's not a completely smooth operation because most of the staff are students; but the food is good, the people are nice and the menu is inventive. You can have a quick bite in the New York-style deli or a more complete meal in the jazzy little restaurant in back. $ to $$ -- inexpensive to moderate. (Last visited 3/92.)

ELIZABETH LARGE Hampton's, Harbor Court Hotel, 550 Light St., (410) 234-0550. When you want to impress people ostentatiously, take them to Sunday brunch at Hampton's. You'll pay a minimum of $20 per person for the sit-down meal; but for that you'll get extravagant food, wonderful service, lots of atmosphere and all the French sparkling wine and freshly squeezed orange juice you can drink. Homemade lobster tortellini in a shellfish broth with blueberry muffins and croissants, anyone? $$$$ -- very expensive. (Last visited 3/92.)

ELIZABETH LARGE

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