Baldwin's, 7618 Main St., Sykesville, (410) 795-1041. This rejuvenated train station, with one dining room in the former freight room and another in the "gentlemen's waiting room," will take some folks back and others into another world, or at least another time. The romance of the rails is everywhere at Baldwin's, even in the menu, with its Denver mixed grill, Cumberland veal, Seattle salmon and Baton Rouge stuffed flounder. And in the impromptu entertainment -- an occasional freight racing by the dining room windows. In addition, the service is friendly; the cocktails, superb; the atmosphere, comfortable; and the food, inventive. $$ 1/2 -- moderately expensive. (Last visited 1/92). Stone Mill Bakery, 1617 Sulgrave Ave., (410) 542-2233. This tiny Mount Washington cafe first and foremost has wonderful breads for sale, but you can also get super sandwiches like lobster on brioche or roast capon salad with baby greens. Even better is the Continental breakfast, featuring fresh orange juice, freshly baked brioches, croissants and cafe au lait. Don't everybody go at once, though -- there are only six tables. $$ -- moderate. (Last reviewed 2/92).
ELIZABETH LARGE Brass Elephant, 924 N. Charles St., (410) 547-8480. Cafe des Artistes, 1501 Sulgrave Ave., (410) 664-2200. Some of Baltimore's most elegant restaurants offer bargain meals if you're willing to eat early on a weeknight. The Brass Elephant has a four-course northern Italian prix fixe dinner, and the Cafe des Artistes, a three-course French. Each costs $15.95. Portions are small and choices are somewhat limited, but the food is every bit as good as you'll get when you spend big bucks. $ -- inexpensive. (Last reviewed 3/92).