Hummer's Olde Bay, 8322 Pulaski Highway, (410) 687-2544...

DINING OUT -- THE CRITICS' REPORT

February 22, 1992|By MARY MAUSHARD | MARY MAUSHARD,Staff writer Staff writer Staff writer

Hummer's Olde Bay, 8322 Pulaski Highway, (410) 687-2544. What you see at the Olde Bay is a low, plain, brick building with randomly parked vehicles in the lot and electric beer signs in the windows. But what you get is good food, skillfully prepared and nicely served in a comfortable, unpretentious dining room. There are, in fact, no pretensions at the Olde Bay. But, then, there don't need to be. The food is so good that it would stand out in much showier surroundings. We particularly enjoyed the sherry-tinged cream of crab soup ($2.95) and the crab lump ($14.95), a delicious concoction that was largely lump crab and garlic. $$ -- moderate (Last visited 1/92.)

Pappas Restaurant, 1725 Taylor Ave., (410) 661-4357. Eatinpasta and crab cakes in a restaurant with a Greek name, while listening to an Asian singer perform Sinatra standards -- how Baltimore can you get? While the American (not Greek) menu is pretty standard-issue, Pappas touts its crab cakes as the world's finest -- and they are, at least, among Baltimore's best. Night owls beware, though -- this is a neighborhood place, and the kitchen closes early. $ to $$ -- inexpensive to moderate. (Last visited 2/92.)

LYNN WILLIAMS Cafe Normandie, Normandy Business Center, 8480 BaltimorNational Pike, Ellicott City, (410) 465-0007. Until recently, Cafe Normandie was Brasserie de Paris. The change signifies changed intentions -- lower prices and more cafe-style preparations. We came away in their favor after eating a first-rate meal: beautiful smoked salmon, imaginative snails and a brilliant seafood cassoulet, to start, followed by excellent tuna, veal with mushrooms and pork loin with roasted garlic, and then a stunning chocolate dacquoise. $$$ -- expensive. (Last visited 12/91.)

JANICE BAKER

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