Brass Elephant924 N. Charles St., (410) 547-8480. The...

DINING OUT/THE CRITICS'REPORT

February 08, 1992|By MARY MAUSHARD | MARY MAUSHARD,The Evening Sun Turning Point Inn The Sun Sam's Waterfront Cafe The Sunday Sun

Brass Elephant

924 N. Charles St., (410) 547-8480. The Brass Elephant, housed in an elegant Charles Street rowhouse, enjoys a widespread reputation as one of Baltimore's best special-occasion restaurants. Indeed, it is special -- pretty and comfortably formal without being stuffy. Service and food are generally good, occasionally excellent. The menu, reflecting the restaurant's Northern Italian leanings, includes pastas such as spaghetti carbonara ($10.50) and fusilli with crab and shrimp ($13), but also entrees such as grilled yellowfin tuna oreganato ($18) and grilled rack of lamb with garlic and red pepper sauce ($22). I particularly enjoyed the mushroom strudel, a rich and pleasing appetizer, and the virtually perfect hollandaise on the a la carte broccoli. $$$expensive. (Last visited 1/92.)

3406 Urbana Pike, Urbana, (301) 874-2421. It's hard not to be taken in by appearances when a place is as lovely as the Turning Point Inn. How can the food at a Georgian beauty like this be anything but delectable? The inn rewarded our expectations with challenging combinations, ample portions and big, bold flavors. Dinners are prix-fixe, although the price for the four-course meal ($25) was for some reason not listed on the menu. $$$expensive. (Last visited 1/92.)

LYNN WILLIAMS 2020 Chesapeake Harbour Drive East, Annapolis, (410) 263-3600. It's a terrific location -- among boats and condominiums, on the water, with bird squawks for sound effects. The food is better than it was a year ago, but not up to what was served when the restaurant was called Dominique's. On a future visit, I would probably skip anything that was complicated and choose an appetizer of mussels or an entree of salmon; either one together with a glass of white wine on a pretty April day would be a way of buying happiness. $$$expensive. (Last visited 12/91.)

JANICE BAKER

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