Dimitri'sDimitri's, 2205 Frederick Road, Catonsville...

DINING OUT/ THE CRITICS' REPORT

January 25, 1992|By MARY MAUSHARD | MARY MAUSHARD,The Evening Sun Old Angler's Inn The Sun Sidestreets The Sunday Sun

Dimitri's

Dimitri's, 2205 Frederick Road, Catonsville, (410) 747-1927. If you want good Greek food, I usually say go to Greektown. But Dimitri's, which is partly suburban and partly down-home, can hold its own among the area's Greek restaurants. It's a casual, friendly place that seems to enjoy great popularity among residents of Catonsville, Ellicott City and thereabouts. Through the restaurant's swinging door is a bar that features country music on weekends. The food is authentic and full of flavor. We especially enjoyed the moussaka and the desserts, a creamy rice pudding and delicious baklava. $$moderate. (Last visited 12/91.)

Old Angler's Inn, 10801 MacArthur Blvd., Potomac, (301) 365-2425. It would be a happy world in which the English ran the pubs and the French the restaurants. The Old Angler's Inn, a circa-1860 stone building near the C&O canal, has a lot of American history behind it, but its cozy, beamed interior recalls one of the classier English public houses, and the menu is luxuriously, sublimely French. Chef Etienne Jaulin supplies the imagination and the Gallic magic, and produces heavenly results. $$$expensive. (Last visited 12/91.)

LYNN WILLIAMS Sidestreets, 8069 Tiber Alley, Ellicott City, (410) 461-5577. The look was varnished natural wood, and the mood was casual, like a ski chalet. The name Sidestreets refers to the restaurant's location, down an alley at the bottom of Ellicott City's Main Street. While the food was never bad, it was only sporadically interesting, but maybe business and the quality of the cooking picks up in good weather. We loved one thing -- a fantastic, creamy, sweet, crackly topped creme brulee; that and a coffee could make an afternoon. $$$expensive. (Last visited 11/91.)

JANICE BAKER

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